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Source of process
GOODYEAR WELTED is a unique production process of the world's top footwear, because of the invention of "Goodyear strip structure shoe technology" Charles. Named after Sir Goodyear. It has a history of nearly 200 years.
Inventor of Goodyear
Sir CHARLES GOODYEAR JS.- 19th century American inventor, in 1871, his "Goodyear strip structure shoe technology" was recognized by the United States patent. His edging technology was cited to make equipment suitable for the production of GOODYAER WELTED HANDMADE SHOES.
origin
In 1875, as a unique footwear production equipment, Goodyear line sewing machine was introduced to Europe. Since then, it has injected fresh blood into the traditional European handmade shoe industry. Compared with simple hand tools, the use of Goodyear machinery liberated the original manual operation of the shoemaker, and advanced to the modern machine-assisted manual shoemaking.
principle diagram
When sewing shoes, the inner and outer edges are used in a double sewing way to firmly clip the upper and sole together, which can withstand any impact and twist. A cavity is formed between the middle sole of the shoe and the outsole, which can be isolated from the moisture, and a layer of cork is laid to ensure the maximum permeability of the shoes. In addition to ensuring a thorough sweat function, the sole will also form a natural footprint, in the first 15 days or so, with the strength of the foot, the sole will be reshaped and become a "personal sole" that matches the foot type, and achieve a comfortable effect when walking.
structure chart
Strict Goodyear shoes should have seven layers (as shown in the figure) : leather shoes, upper, insole, cushion as a whole, there is a cork pulp layer in the middle, and then through the edge strip and outsole fixed, the main components are independent of each other, can be easily replaced. Such a pair of shoes, comfortable, cushioned large, elastic feet, breathable, and more importantly, not afraid of degumming.
1. Shoe last technique
First of all, combined with the customer's body, style recommended to match the last style. Last is based on the foot, but it can not be the same as the foot, because the foot is at rest and in motion, its shape, size, stress, etc., have changed, plus the style of the shoe, the processing process, the material performance of the leather.
2. Cut the leather
According to the style designed by the designer, the paper pattern technician will convert it into the paper pattern, to have the leather cutting technician use these paper patterns to cut the leather, the selection of the leather part is very sophisticated, customized shoes especially need strict screening.
3. Handmade Brogues pattern
Usually in the cut of the shoe leather material to do some decorative patterns, the shoemaker uses the trimming machine to trim the edge, and then use the punch in the shoe leather material manually out of the hole, composed of various types of block pattern, which is a considerable patience and technical manual work.
4. Make the midsole
The multi-layered pressed midsole is already the secret of the memory foot (a composite of cork and cowhide). It is an important material used to absorb shock and buffer, and remember the foot type). The process of stitching the bayonet between the strip and the midsole is called the dark seam.
5. Sewing welt
The lining structure is the best part of the Goodyear process. The leather lining is sewn along the edge of the sole and the upper of the shoe, which plays a role in stabilizing and strengthening the structure of the entire shoe. All the stitches are specially waxed for high strength.
6. Cork filling
The strip, the middle sole, and the upper are stitched together, and the grooves formed in the middle of the sole are filled with cork particles made of water pine leather, which has good hygroscopic properties and can increase the elasticity of the outsole when worn.
7. Sew large lines
The stitching of the outsole and the strip ensures the stability of the structure of the shoe, and the customized men's shoes are completed by hand, which is the most professional and technical process in the shoemaking process. The sewing Angle of the bottom stitch, the effect of the stitch is to distinguish the dividing line between the production level of different products.
8 cleat heels
A number of layers of leather heels are nailed to the heel position, forming a hollow layer in the middle to slow down the impact force received by the heel when walking, and a rubber layer is installed at the back of the heel to reduce the degree of heel wear.
9. Trim and touch up
In the later stage of shoe production, the overall details should be checked and trimmed, so that the overall edge should also be touched up. More aesthetic, the upper to do some coloring, wax and other effects of treatment, sole surface and bottom